Ephesus

Ephesus lies about 3 kilometres southwest of the town of Selçuk in western Turkey. At its peak in the 1st and 2nd centuries CE, it was the largest city in Roman Asia, home to an estimated 250,000 people. The Roman geographer Strabo called it the chief market of Asia west of the Taurus. Saint Paul lived and preached here for nearly three years, and the city is addressed in one of the letters in the Book of Revelation.

What distinguishes Ephesus from other ancient cities in Turkey is the sheer scale of what survives. Marble-paved streets, gymnasia, bath complexes, a commercial agora, a state agora, public latrines, fountains, and monumental gateways have been excavated and partially restored. The Austrian Archaeological Institute has been working at Ephesus for over 125 years, and new discoveries continue with each excavation season.

When to Visit

Spring (March through May) and autumn (September through November) offer the best balance of comfortable temperatures and lighter crowds. Ephesus is one of Turkey’s most visited archaeological sites; summer sees heavy foot traffic, particularly from cruise ships docking at Kuşadası. Early morning or late afternoon arrivals avoid the midday peak.

How to Get There

İzmir Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB) is about 60 kilometres north, roughly a one-hour drive. Selçuk, the nearest town, is connected to İzmir by frequent commuter trains and minibuses. Kuşadası, a cruise port 17 kilometres to the southwest, serves as another accommodation base. The site has two entrances — upper and lower — and most guided tours walk downhill from the upper gate.

What to See

The Library of Celsus

The two-storey façade of the Library of Celsus, reconstructed from its original stones beginning in the 1970s, is the defining image of Ephesus. Built in 117 CE as both a library and a monumental tomb for the Roman senator Gaius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, it once held approximately 12,000 scrolls. The façade uses a technique of concave and convex niches to appear larger than it actually is.

The Great Theatre

Cut into the slope of Mount Pion (Panayır Dağı), the theatre seated 25,000 spectators and served for both performances and public assemblies. It was here, according to the Acts of the Apostles, that a crowd protested against Paul’s preaching by chanting “Great is Artemis of the Ephesians” for two hours. The acoustics remain functional today.

Curetes Street and the Terrace Houses

The main processional street runs from the Library of Celsus toward the upper gate, lined with columns, honorific inscriptions, and fountains. Off this street, the Terrace Houses — luxury Roman residences built into the hillside — preserve mosaic floors, marble wall panels, and frescoes depicting scenes from mythology. They offer the clearest picture of how the wealthy lived in a Roman provincial capital.

The Temple of Artemis

One of the original Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Temple of Artemis stood about a kilometre from the city centre, near present-day Selçuk. Of the temple itself, only a single reconstructed column and marshy foundations remain. It was four times the size of the Parthenon in Athens and served as both a religious sanctuary and a commercial bank.

The Basilica of Saint John

On Ayasuluk Hill in Selçuk, above the Temple of Artemis site, Emperor Justinian built a basilica in the 6th century over the believed burial site of John the Apostle. The partially restored structure retains its floor plan, some columns, and sections of marble flooring, giving a sense of its original 110-metre length.

Practical Information

Allow two to three hours for the archaeological site and one additional hour for the Terrace Houses (separate ticket). The Ephesus Museum in Selçuk houses small finds including the famous Artemis statue. Combined with the Basilica of Saint John and the Temple of Artemis site, a full day is needed. Selçuk is the most practical base, with family-run hotels and restaurants within walking distance of both the town centre and the lower gate. Kuşadası offers more resort-style accommodation.

One Thing Most Visitors Miss

The Grotto of the Seven Sleepers, a short drive from the archaeological site, contains a Byzantine-era cemetery and chapel complex built around a cave where legend holds that seven young Christians slept for 200 years to escape Roman persecution during the reign of Decius (250 CE). The story appears in both Christian tradition and the Quran (Surah Al-Kahf). The site is rarely crowded, and the carved burial niches lining the cave walls are quietly compelling.

Ephesus does not need to be imagined — enough of it remains that the ancient city can be walked, not just read about.